DevilEyes (Skull) Decorative Inlay Kit EZInlays

DevilEyes Decorative Inlay Kit

$75
FREE SHIPPING Dimensions:

5-3/4" Tall, 4-1/4" Wide

Instructions to build the Decorative Inlay Kit DevilEyes

DevilEyes
Instructions

This Build

Image of the DevilEyez inlaybuilt with these instructions

Black Skull

Image of the first FishFry decorative inlay built

Red Skull

Glitter and epoxy used in this FishFry build.

What's Included in the Kit

For $75 you'll receive the decorative inlay kit DevilEyes, which consists of 7 templates. Each template builds another layer of the skull. It takes about five hours to create this frighteningly decorative inlay. :)

By following simple and repetitive router based inlay techniques you're guaranteed to build an inlay that looks so amazing you'll be proud to say, "Yeah, I made that!"

Best of all you don't need to be a master crafts-person to build this inlay. All you need is some wood and a few basic tools. Click here review the Router Based Inlay Tool List.

Never built an inlay before? Click here to Learn How To Build Any Wood Inlay.

Select and Prepare the Inlay Materials

This is one of those inlays where you really don't have limitations for wood-color combinations because Skulls look good in any color!

I find it fun to search for the perfect section of wood that has the right grain pattern and color combination to fit the need of the piece. Here you'll be injecting your personality into the design so take your time and have fun with it. The best tip I can give you is to cut the three pieces that make up the skull from one board to keep the grain pattern intact for the entire skull.

You want the base material, the material in which the skull will be inlaid, to be at least 3/8 of an inch thick, any thinner than that and chances are good your inlay will warp!

INLAY MATERIALS THIS BUILD

    * Purple Heart 7" x 8" x 5/8" - Base material (the lid)
    * Quilted Maple 6" x 5" x 1/8" - Skull
    * Red Heart 4" x 3" x 1/8" - Eye, Nose, Mouth, and Scar
    * Yellow Heart 3" x 3" x 1/8" - Teeth
    * Bacote 4" x 3" x 1/8" - Eye Patch

GENERAL GUIDELNES

The main thing you want to pay attention when selecting the material for any type of decorative inlay is contrast. There are two type of contrast to keep in mind, color and grain pattern / direction.

It's possible to get decent contrast from two similarly colored woods as long as there is a sharp contrast in grain patterns and direction. Without this contrast your inlay will not look it's best!

Good Contrast Inlay
Picture of inlay with high contrast eyes and ears

Eye Skull

The top picture shows great contrast between the Maple skull and the Walnut background. The eyes and mouth jump out of the skull and the Yellow Heart teeth totally pop against the Wenge background.

Rosewood was used for the eye patch and Red Heart for the eye, nose, and scar. This made for poor contrast for the scar with the eye and patch

For an example of a good eye patch check out how the quilted Maple eye patch, on the Red Skull build, provides great contrast with the Red Heart skull.

In both of these pictures, the mouth is made from a different material than the eye, nose, and scar. Other pictures show the mouth, eye, scar, and nose all made from the same material. You get to decide what looks best for your creation!

In the Eye Skull build you can see a pupil inlaid into the eye socket. This is the only build where I actually used the pupil. Part of me likes it, part of me thinks it makes the skull look a little creepy.

One other item to note about this build is the grain direction and material selection for the eye. I was going for a look that the back of the skull was missing so I selected an inlay that replicated the grain pattern of the base material.

Cutting an Inlay Procedures

Configure your router by taking the BUSHING OFF and setting depth of plunge to cut all the way through the inlay material.

Align and, using double sided tape, affix the template to the inlay material.

Use quick release clamps to secure the inlay assembly to the workbench

Position the router inside the cutout shape, turn it on, and plunge it into the inlay material. Carefully guide the router around the perimeter of the shape keeping the bearing in constant contact with the template wall. After the pass is complete turn the router off, un-plunge it, and set it aside.

Ensure you cut all the way through the inlay material. If not readjust the depth of plunge and make another pass.

Carefully remove the template and the inlay from the backing material.

Click here review how to Cut Inlays.

The Skull

The Skull

Layer 1 Inlays

The skull is made up of 3 inlays - L1P1, L5P1, and L6P1. It's best to cut all of the inlays from the same board. Use the alignment marks to position the template on the inlay material.

Look closely at the top right and the lower left corners of the "The Skull" picture for the alignment marks. After cutting, the inlay material will look similar to the picture.

Layer 1 Piece 2

Layer 1 Inlay 2

Layer 1 piece 2 is the area that end up being the teeth of the skull. For this build I chose Yellow Heart because... well doesn't a skull have yellow snarling teeth? :O

Another option for the teeth is to cut the void on the base material, fill it with a glitter filled epoxy mixture and, let it dry for a couple of days. After the epoxy dries move on to layer 2.

To see an example of glitter teeth scroll up and look at the Red Skull build. The Black Skull build has one gold tooth but that's a blog for a different day!

Layer 2 Pieces 1, 2, and 3

Layer 2 Inlays

This template cuts the scar and 2 of the 5 inlays to create the teeth. BUT!!! Make sure you select all 5 pieces that make up the mouth at the same time. The other inlay pieces to be considered are L3P1, L3P2, and L4P2.

For this build the scar, mouth, nose, and eye pieces were all cut from the same material. Be mindful to ensure the grain pattern, for all of these pieces, flow throughout the skull in the same direction. If one piece has a grain direction opposite the other pieces, the effect will be lost and your inlay will truly be scary! :O

Layer 3 Pieces 1 and 2

Layer 3 Inlays

This template cuts two more of the mouth pieces out. The location of these pieces should have been determined in the prior step.

A continuous grain pattern and flow behind the teeth is what you're looking for. You want these pieces to blend together so the eye focuses on the teeth and not these pieces. A highly visible grain pattern can ruin the effect because they will stand out.

Find a grain pattern, and a color that contrasts well with the teeth and the skull, so the pieces all flow together. If you want to see them you should have to go looking for them! The grain pattern of the Red Heart blends well in this build as does the Wenge mouth pieces shown in other builds.

Layer 4 Piece 1

Layer 4 Piece 2

Layer 4 Inlays

This template is used to cut the eye patch and the last mouth piece.

For the eye patch, L4P1 search for a grain pattern that has something interesting in it. I like to find a knot or some other grain altering imperfection in the material for the center of the patch.

My favorite eye patch is the one used on the Red Skull build. The picture doesn't do justice to how the grain pattern moves in the eye patch when the light changes.

Follow the advice for the prior mouth pieces for L4P2 and you'll be fine! :)

Layer 6 Piece 1

Layer 6 Inlays

This template cuts the jaw of the skull and the eye.

See The Skull tab for details on the L6P2 inlay.

The eye should be made from the same material as the nose. The grain directions also need to match. Make sure there is good contrast with the rest of the skull.

I really liked how the Red Heart turned out for this build. It almost looked like there was a flame burning inside the skull. Oh... And I prefer the mouth to match the eye, nose, and scar.

Layer 7 Piece 2

Pupil Inlaid

Layer 7 Inlays

This template cuts out the nose and the optional pupil.

The location of the nose piece, L7P2, should have been determined when selecting the eye and possibly the mouth pieces.

The pupil piece is optional. Scroll up to see how the pupil looks in the Eye Skull photo. If you're unsure if you want to inlay the pupil or not cut out the pupil inlay. After the eye piece, L6P1, has been inlaid place the pupil inlay on the design. Might as well place the nose piece on there too, then decide if you want to install the pupil or not.

If you decide to inlay the pupil make sure there is plenty of contrast between the eye and the pupil. If you want to use a dark pupil this would be a great time to pour a little epoxy mixed with black glitter!

Notice how the grain pattern and color of the eye and nose match the background material. Also notice the grain pattern going vertical in the scar but horizontal everywhere else. sigh...

And while I'm picking nits... The eye patch blends into the background and scar. It would have looked better had it been made using a different spices of wood.

Cutting Voids And Assembly

Configure your router by putting the BUSHING ON and setting depth of plunge to cut a void as deep as the inlay material without cutting all the way through the base material.

Use the circular alignment marks to align the template to the base material, then use double sided tape to affix the template in place. Use quick release clamps to secure the assembly to the workbench.

Position the router inside the shape, turn it on, and plunge it down. Guide the router around the perimeter of the shape and then move it back and forth to remove the material. After the majority of the material is removed turn the router off, un-plunge it, and set it aside. Clean out the debris then make another pass to get clean edges for the inlay to fit into and to remove any remaining knobbies.

Carefully remove the template from the base material.

Pre-fit the inlay into it's void and sand to fit if necessary. Once the fit is satisfactory smear glue on the bottom of the inlay and in the void. Place the inlay in it's void and use a soft mallet to tap the inlay until it's fully seated.

Click here review how to Cut Voids and Assemble the Inlays.

Layer 1 Voids

Layer 1 Assembled

Layer 1 Voids

Layer 1 does a decent job of reflecting the overall size and shape of DevilEyes, so use that template to decide where to position the inlay. After positioning the template, trace the two circular alignment marks and the outline of the template on the base material. You can review the alignment procedures here.

Using the registration marks, not the template outline, position and secure the Layer 1 template to the base material with double sided tape. Route the voids for the top half of the skull and the teeth using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed, use a paint scraper to gently pry the template off the base material. When finished the voids should look similar to the Layer 1 Voids picture.

Assemble the two inlay pieces into their respective void. When finished the inlay should look similar to the Layer 1 Assembled picture. The picture shows the base material has been prepared for the next layer. The outlines provide a visual indication of where to place the double sided tape.

After the pieces are assembled let the glue dry for fifteen to twenty minutes. The drying time isn't required, just a recommendation. The voids routed on Layer 2 removes a fair amount of material for the teeth. Letting the glue dry will prevent movement of the already inlaid piece.

Layer 2 Voids

Layer 2 Assembled

Layer 2 Voids

For this layer you'll cut out the scar and begin to shape the teeth

Using the registration marks, not the template outline, position and secure the Layer 2 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed, use a paint scraper to gently pry the template off the base material. When finished the voids should look similar to the Layer 2 Voids picture.

Assemble the inlay pieces into their respective void. When finished the inlay should look similar to the Layer 2 Assembled picture.

There really isn't much of a need to wait for the glue to dry on this layer. The next layer barely touches these pieces.

By now you begin to see how the teeth are formed, the skull is beginning to come to life... if a skull can do such a thing...

Layer 3 Voids

Layer 3 Assembled

Layer 3 Voids

This layer carves out a couple more of the DevilEyes teeth.

Using the registration marks, not the template outline, position and secure the Layer 3 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed, use a paint scraper to gently pry the template off the base material. When finished the voids should look similar to the Layer 3 Voids picture.

Assemble the inlay pieces into their respective void. When finished the inlay should look similar to the Layer 3 Assembled picture.

In the Assembled picture, notice how the shapes from the Layer 4 template was used to determine where to place double sided tape.

Once again you really don't need to let the glue dry because the next layer doesn't remove any material from these pieces.

From a process perspective... same old... same old... Still it's pretty cool watching teeth start to come together!

Layer 4 Voids

Layer 4 Assembled

Layer 4 Voids

Layer 4 adds the eye patch and puts a bite in the design by finishing off the teeth. :)

Position and secure the Layer 4 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

When cutting voids make sure to pay attention to the depth of cut. If your inlay materials have different thicknesses you'll have to reset the depth of plunge for each inlay. If that is the case, route the tooth piece first because the router is already set to cut that depth.

After the voids have been routed they should look similar to the Layer 4 Voids picture.

After assembling the inlay your design should look similar to the Layer 4 Assembled picture.

After the pieces are assembled it's important to let the glue dry!!! The next layer removes material all along the bottom of the eye patch. If the glue isn't dried it can shift down a bit creating gaps between the top of the eye patch and the top skull piece.

Layer 5 Void

Layer 5 Assembled

Layer 5 Void

Face it, sooner or later you had to add a face so the Devil can get its eye! Layer5 does just that...

Position and secure the Layer 5 template to the base material. Route the void for the face using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After routing the void should look similar to the Layer 5 Void picture. Now you understand why you let the glue dry from the prior step!

After assembling the inlay into its void your design should look similar to the Layer 5 Assembled picture.

You don't need to let the glue dry after assembling the face. The next layer cuts into the face but it doesn't cut any of its perimeter so the inlay itself can't shift.

Now that the teeth are done you can see how your selection of mouth pieces turned out. Hopefully the grain patterns and colors all blend together so you don't see those small pieces.

At this point you may notice gaps in your inlay. Don't worry about them, they all get fixed at one time after the final piece has been inlaid. Besides that, any gaps between the bottom of the teeth and the base material will be routed away on the next layer anyway.

Layer 6 Voids

Didn't Assemble Yet

Layer 6 Voids

We're not putting a bow on it with this layer rather we're putting a smile on it. Eye see what you just did there... Yup, we're adding the lower jaw and eye with this layer. :)

Position and secure the Layer 6 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After routing the voids should look similar to the Layer 6 Voids picture.

Notice I didn't assemble the inlays before proceeding to the next layer. The reason for this is because I'm not adding a pupil to this design. The next layer will add a nose and the nose doesn't overlap with either of the inlays on Layer 6.

If however, you're going to inlay a pupil you must assemble the eye inlay prior to cutting the voids for Layer 7. But you'll figure that out pretty quick too. :O

Only one more layer to go and your design will be complete!!!!

Layer 7 Voids

Layer 7 Assembled

Layer 7 Voids

Last layer!!! Time to add the nose and possibly a pupil to the eye.

Position and secure the Layer 7 template and route the voids. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After routing the voids your work of art should look similar to the Layer 7 Voids picture.

After assembling the inlays into their voids your masterpiece should look similar to the Layer 7 Assembled picture.

After the pieces are assembled let the glue dry for a few hours or overnight is better. Glue drying is critical now because the next step involves sanding and finishing the inlay.

After the glue is completely dry proceed to the final sanding and finishing procedure.

Final Sanding and Applying Finish

To fix any gaps in the inlay smear a small amount of glue into the gap, wipe off the excess glue, then sand over the area. The sanding action will cause sawdust to mix with the glue in the gap blurring it out.

After all the gaps have been filled sand the entire inlay until it's flat. This process is best done after the glue has completely dried!

Once sanded apply the finish of your choice. Personally I like to apply three coats of Tung Oil followed by three coats of a polyurethane finish that has a UV inhibitor in it. The UV protection will help keep the woods from changing color over time.

Click here for more information about Sanding and Finishing Tutorial.